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Whenever curating a roll of London’s best eateries, one might foresee well-known high-end venues. Yet, tucked prominently among these food giants is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says the proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small restaurant securing such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this eatery more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary honour.